Roaster’s Coffee Baisenya or Baisenya, “roastery” in Japanese, was established in Fukuoka prefecture in 1988 as a specialized store that only sold coffee beans, a rarity at the time. More than thirty years later, they are still one of only a few standalone roasters that don’t have an attached cafe, or sell their coffee beans online. “We are a little bit clumsy.” We speak with Mr. Kenkichi Hirayama, the second-generation owner who continues to preserve the tradition at Baisenya.  ※ Titles in the text are omitted. Not relying on the power of coffee beans as ingredients.  Mornings at Baisenya begin with Kenkichi and his father Satoru hand-sorting coffee beans. This is necessary to pick out unripe or insect-eaten beans called defective beans from producers who don’t use pesticides on their crops.   Kenkichi says, “Most of the defective coffee beans do not affect the taste of the coffee, but removing them changes the clarity and uniformity of the brew. But it is a different story for moldy coffee beans, which can critically alter the taste. If there is a single moldy bean in 100 grams, it would seriously affect the quality when it gets mixed into the grind with the rest. Thus, we would like to prevent that kind of ground coffee from reaching the hands of our customers as much as possible.” “First of all, the producers are very particular about producing high-quality coffee, so even if we roast coffee as it is, we can still make it delicious. But we don’t want to assume that every bean is perfect; we want to make it better by working on it ourselves.”  Hand-sorting is a painstaking...

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